My Thoughts On Diamond Buying
In the months before proposing to Christine I did a great deal of research on diamonds and how to buy them. There are a million websites out there that will tell you about the 4C’s of diamond buying, but very few that will tell you how to value those qualities or what ranges to aim for. I scoured the internet and picked the brains of my friends and coworkers to get a sense of what was really important. It felt like a shame to learn all this and then only use it once, so I thought I’d share my experiences in the hopes of helping other men out there. I certainly don’t claim to be an expert on the subject, but I do offer a data point that you can use when making your own decisions.
Carat
The size of the diamond is the most noticeable aspect, and one of the few qualities that you can spot without close inspection. The cost of the diamond does not go up linearly with size however, as the price jumps drastically around each quarter a carat. In my opinion the 3/4 carat size was plenty big, and at around half the cost of a 1 carat it left more room to ensure I was getting a high quality diamond that scored well in the other categories.
My recommendation: 0.6 - 0.8 carats
Cut
Over time the industry has determined the specific angles and depths for a cut that result in the most light reflecting back out of the top of the diamond, giving it more sparkle. The cut rating is a measurement of how well the diamond conforms to the ideal proportions for that shape. In order to maximize the carat weight of the rough diamond the cutter may fudge the numbers a bit, resulting in a larger but less magnificent diamond.
In additional to an overall cut rating, there are also sub-ratings for polish and symmetry. A diamond that has an Excellent rating on all three categories is known as a Triple-X. There are varying theories as to how important the cut rating is, but for me a good sparkle was very important.
My recommendation: Excellent
Clarity
Diamonds with a clarity of SI2 or better won’t have any inclusions that are visible with the naked eye, and at the end of the day this what really matters. Diamonds with a higher clarity rating are more rare and more valuable for sure, but it’s important to remember that this is primarily a piece of jewelry, and no one but you and your fiancée will know or care about blemishes that are only visible under magnification. Even with the help of the jeweler I had trouble seeing inclusions under magnification, so I was comfortable with going lower in the spectrum.
My recommendation: SI1-SI2
Color
Jewelers often demonstrate or compare color by showing the diamond against a white piece of paper, but in the real world the rock will never be looked at in that way. Like clarity, color affects the value of the diamond but in most cases not the wearability or enjoyment. A gold ring, even white gold, will have a yellow hue to it, obscuring the color of the diamond and allowing you to go lower on this scale.
My recommendation: G-H
Certification
The GIA certification is the most well established in the United States, but the AGS has also become pretty respected. I would strongly recommend buying a diamond with one of these two types of certification, since it gives you confidence about what you are buying and allows you to compare prices.
Buying Tips
I would avoid jewelry stores, as they are more interested in selling you a complete ring then a diamond. They wanted to sell me the ring they had in the store, cutting it to fit the size I needed. Also at one store I went to they showed me some diamonds without even giving me a magnification loupe, which to me is a clear sign that they don’t respect the product or me as a consumer.
Instead go to a jeweler that sells the diamonds loose, even if you intend to buy a ring there as well. Ensure that they show you every imperfection in the diamonds you look at, and that they treat you with respect. A purchase of this size deserves some attention, and a good jeweler will recognize you as a long term investment.
Diamonds are precisely measured and rated, and the industry has charts that they use to determine their value. These charts aren’t available to the public, so it can be tough to determine if you are getting a good price. For me the best resource was BlueNile.com, an online diamond seller that has a powerful search tool. I would expect to pay a little more at a brick and mortar store, but the prices listed there will give you a good baseline on what’s a fair price.
Good luck, and I hope this helps!